*This post has been updated with a few pictures*

So much has happened since my last post. My problem has been that since so much was happening I kept on meaning to post but then I would be overwhelmed by how much there was to talk about so I would put it off only to be faced with a bigger problem as there was even more to talk about. I’m finally biting the bullet but alas I have compromised with myself and it will be an abbreviated bullet.

So after my birthday Emily and I left for vacation. We are trying to save money for a trip home in March for a wedding so this year’s vacation was not a jaunt off to some other east-Asian country (like the Philippines in 2008 and Korea in 2009) but instead a trip around our own Formosa (one of Taiwan’s many names.) After thinking about what we could do we decided upon a moped trip around Taiwan. Setting out with with one other friend Rachel, on her own moped, Emily and I piled our big backpack, our tent, and ourselves onto our moped and fled Taipei. We traveled down the west-side of Taiwan’s mountainous center stopping only one night to stay with friends near Nantou before completing the journey down to our friend’s house in DongGang, a coastal town south of Kaohsiung (Taiwan’s second-biggest city).

Taipei to Dong Gang

Rachel and Michael on a rare picture break…we drove 8 or 9 hours a day!


We stayed and hung out with Laura, our DongGang friend, for about a week and camped for a few days on Xiao Liu Chu, a small, coral island not far from DongGang. It was warm and sunny. We camped out on the beach and read and we even went snorkeling in the surf. It was fantastic and a great departure from the much colder north.

小琉球 Little Glass Ball Island Island 6

Campfires on Xiao Liu Qiu (小琉球)

東港 Black Sand Beach 3

The black beach in Dong Gang (東港). We’re not sure if the sand is black because of pollution or because of…nature.

Emily celebrated her birthday while we were in DongGang. I took her to Kaohsiung for the day and we hiked and road bikes and had fun together exploring the city. She’s a quarter-century old if you can believe it.

Gettin' Lost on Monkey Mountain

What we discovered during our hike on Kaohsiung’s  (高雄) Monkey Mountain – an ancient tree with pterodactyl-esque nests tangled in the top. Jurassic Park, anyone?

Megan, my sister, joined up with us the day before we left DongGang. Now there were four of us on two mopeds for the trip back to Taipei and oh man were we funny looking all packed on to our tiny, little 125cc scooters.

We took off north and hopped on Hwy 20, Taiwan’s southern cross-island road. There was a ton of road damage from mud-slides and it was very precarious in spots…it’s a very good thing that no mothers were on the trip is probably where I should leave the description. We came across many construction crews repairing damage and were even held up by one that hadn’t completed a little dirt trail to connect each side of the road from where a bridge had collapsed. Emily’s pictures will be invaluable for you all to see and get a better idea of what I’m talking about!

Quintessential Hakka Village

Three generations guard the family food stand near Mei Nong township (美濃)

Michael Jackson saves the day

There’s an awesome story behind this picture. We came upon a part in the road that was absolutely impassable, until this dude talked to the man in the backhoe and sped up the operation a little…they worked out a sort of ramp and helped push our scooters up! He came up with this pose himself, by the way.

We made it through eventually though and camped at LiSong, a natural hot-springs that LonelyPlanet says is Taiwan’s most beautiful hot-spring. It was very beautiful but oh man was it a hike to get down to it at the base of a ravine. I’ll leave that story for Emily to share.

Li Song Hot Spring 4

Li Song Hot Spring 5

Li Song Hot Spring 7

Li Song Hot Spring 6

After a few days there we took off up the east coast of Taiwan. The mountains and the east coast of Taiwan are so beautiful; so untamed compared to what we were driving past going south on the west-side.

Happy, weary travelers

Highway 11

Highway 9

After a night at Hualien‘s Formosa Backpackers Hostel (recommendable) we headed into Taroko Gorge for a few days of camping and hiking. Another great story and another one I’ll leave for Emily.

Taroko National Park

Taroko National Park

Hike to Lian Hua PondHiking up to Lian Hua Pond (蓮花池)

Aboriginal HospitalityAboriginal hospitality (ie liqueur, songs, and a raging fire)

After leaving Taroko we continued to head west and north through Taiwan’s mountains. It was slow going and very foggy in places. We stayed one night at a place called Wuling Farms and while it was a nice place we arrived too late in the day to truly enjoy it. Plus, we were pretty far north at this point and as we were camping we were less enthused about being outside and “doing stuff” due to the drop in temperature.

Snow at KM 160

Snow! Snow! Snow!

Wu Ling Farms

Wuling Farms (武陵農場)

Blooming at Wuling Farms

Our last day driving from Wuling Farms to Taipei was the most grueling. It was cold, rainy, and foggy and we were way up in the mountains in the middle of these clouds that were causing the rain and the fog…and we were riding on mopeds…brr.

We finally made it back to our house last Friday evening. Since then we’ve been hanging, reading, and enjoying each other’s company. Megan had to leave to head back to her home on Kinmen today. Monday Emily and I start school.

Vacation is over.


 

Here it is! A slideshow of our happy two weeks with friends and family in the States.

 

Well the focal point of why Emily and I chose to go to Korea for vacation this year was to do some Downhill Skiing & Snowboarding. I knew I wanted to go to a country that had this feature and also wasn’t far from Taiwan. It came down to China, Korea or Japan. China I ruled out because I was unsure of what visa kinds of things Americans needed for going there and just something about the choice didn’t sit right. Japan got nixed because all the reports I’d heard were that its an expensive country…..definitely no good! Thus the Republic of Korea was the lucky winner.

So I started doing some research on the different ski resorts Korea had to offer. My plan was that Emily and I would hit two of them. In reality we ended up at one for three days. Yongpyong Ski Resort lost to Vancouver for hosting the 2010 Winter Olympics by only three votes and the internet consistently listed it as Korea’s best skiing. I figured if it was almost good enough for Olympians than two kids from Michigan would definitely be able to have a good time. It also had the bonus of having a hostel right at the hill which cost a whopping $8 USD per night for a bunk.

The resort is pretty big. There are several hotels to choose from, condominiums, apartments, restaurants, and one of the hotels even has an indoor water park. The vertical at its highest, if I remember right, was around 4,000 meters…..now that I think of it though that might just have been above sea-level and not a true top to bottom measurement, I don’t know. They don’t get enough snow for skiing though. Consequently the snow is mostly man-made. Its sort of strange to see the white slopes with skiers zipping by meters away while riding the chairlift above the wooded hill with only a dusting of white directly below your feet. I think my biggest complaint was that there was a fair bit of ice on some of the runs. In some places there were patches bad enough for ski-patrol to put up mini-blocks in the middle of hills. I also felt like the grooming could have been better as well. On the good side of things it was good skiing. I’d place it above Searchmont in Canada but below Loveland in Colorado in terms of length of hills, which is pretty much what I was expecting. Searchmont’s snow is way more fun though and Colorado’s prices are way higher so I guess its hard to compare. It was great to be skiing again!

For the first day I rented a board and Emily and I skied hard morning and afternoon. The next day back on a board I was a little sore though. We took it easier and explored some more of the hills….there are like 31 runs total. We went out for a few runs that night but that didn’t last very long as we were both tired and were afraid of injury. Day three Emily decided to hit the Korean bathhouse instead of the slopes so I rented a pair of skis and got a ticket for the gondola which serves the 5 km long intermediate trail and the double-black racing section of the resort. Upon reaching the summit though I discovered the racing section was closed…..what a bummer! It wasn’t too bad though because there were other blacks and double-blacks that I had already skied in other areas of the resort that weren’t bad at all. I particularly liked the hill that was formerly used for racing called Silver. The 5 km trail was fun too. An easy ride and pretty views it wove back and forth down the side of the mountain! Perfect for couple or family skiing.

While we were at the resort there was also some sort of competition going on. We kept on seeing signs for “Pyeongchang IBU Biathlon World Competition” or something like that and saw people walking around in matching uniforms with different countries’ flags on the sleeves and stuff. I really didn’t find out what it was all about though and the events or whatever must have been somewhere besides the skiing hills because we didn’t come across any of them.

One very pleasant surprise was the crowd. Everything I had read on the internet about skiing in Korea included complaints of crowded slopes and long lines for lifts. Thankfully this led to my decision to ski during the week which was probably the reason why the longest we waited in line for a lift during our three days was no more than 5 minutes at most. I didn’t feel that hampered at all going down the runs by other people. An interesting side-note is that we heard quite a bit of German which was weird because last year scuba-diving in the Philippines there were tons of Germans as well. I guess they just get out more than the rest of us.

We also made out with prices. My lonelyplanet guide book published in 2007 put the exchange rate at 700 or so Korean Won for one US dollar but when we were there it was like 1300 Won per $1 USD. We were also grateful that at Yongpyong’s restaurants and convenience stores the mark-up wasn’t as disgusting as it is at US Ski Resorts. Lift tickets and rentals weren’t terribly expensive either, plus staying at the hostel got us coupons for 30% off. I think I figured it out to skiing all day with a rental at full-price was like $90 USD per person. Considering thats about what you pay at Bittersweet in Kalamazoo, MI, which has never even been heard of by the Olympic Committee I’d say Yongpyong is a pretty good deal!

Enough with all the money details and reports on the hills and crowds. All in all it was wonderful to be on slopes again carving up the hills on a snowboard and skis. It was great having my nose go numb while the rest of my body stayed cozy and warm under thick layers of clothing. It was wonderful to get a hot meal and a beer and be able to  truly appreciate its warmth and comfort after a full day of exertion. It was even wonderful to remember simple pleasures like using a window sill as a refrigerator. I’m glad we had this opportunity and now I can proudly say: I’ve skied Yongpyong!

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