One thing I really enjoy, and I think I inherited it from my dad, is figuring out ways to “get a deal.” On our recent vacation to Korea we stayed in several hostels as well as one local hotel. For anyone contemplating a visit to the Manchurian penninsula and who wants to know where we stayed, how we made our reservations, and what we thought of the lodgings read on.

First of all let me to explain my method. On the internet there are several hostel listing websites like Hostels.com, Hostelbookers.com, Hostelworld.com, etc. Most of them work pretty much the same. You type in your stay dates and what location you want to find a hostel in and then they pull up a list of hostels to choose from with pictures, reviews, and stuff like that. Well when you use these sites to make a reservation at a hostel they make you punch in your credit card to pay a few bucks of the cost of the room up-front. Its pretty much a fee that the internet site takes away from the hostel for listing them. So what I took to doing was looking at the same hostels on several of these sites for reviews as well as pricing. Then I’d search for the website of the actual hostel I wanted to reserve a bed at and they almost all had their own website as well. I’d then contact the hostel I wanted a reservation at directly and they’d let me make a reservation without any fuss about credit cards and such. It worked great!

Night 1: Airport Backpacker Guesthouse
 This place is great for its proximity to the airport. Its like 3 minutes from Incheon International Airport in a car to this hostel and they offer a free shuttle. It doesn’t really have a lot of character but the facilities are excellent. Very new and very clean we even had a refrigerator in our room which is more then you get at a Holiday Inn. At $19.29 USD per person its a way better deal too. We stayed here because our flight arrived at like 10:15pm or something and the buses that run from the airport to various destinations in Seoul stop around 11pm or something so I didn’t want to risk getting stuck. This place is also blessed with a good staff that speak English and we were pleased to discover they would let us pay for the room in the morning with our credit card…yay! Our verdict: perfect for traveller’s needing lodging near Incheon International Airport and not just the young and adventurous. The rooms are even stocked with toiletries for the forgetful guests. I can’t stress enough how nice our private double-bed room with private bathroom was. Just as good as any mainstream hotel.

Nights 2 & 3: The Hongdae Guesthouse
 Awesome location! This is a great hostel. Its on the 3rd floor of the building right outside of the Hongik University subway station. This area of Seoul is known as Hongdae and is an extremely vibrant student area. With tons of shops, cafes, and such during the day Hongdae is just as cool at night with a ton of clubs, bars, and the like. We were told that this was a cool area of Seoul by a friend who had lived in Seoul previously (shout out to Sam!) and are very grateful for the advice. Its also a very central area of Seoul and easy to use the subway to get anywhere else one would want to go. We went out to a few of the bars and caught some live music while staying at the Hongdae Guesthouse and having our hostel right there within walking distance was great. The hostel is basically two of the numerous rooms in the building with various businesses and such in the other rooms. One room has 6 bunk beds, the other has 8 bunk beds. Each has a bathroom, a laundry machine, and a computer with internet access. The hostel is run by a travel agency who’s office is in one of the other 3rd floor rooms. Mary Wang, the manager, was awesome. Her English is excellent! She helped us get tickets to a traditional Korean theatre drum show, Miso, at Chongdong Theatre, and for over an hour and a half tried to help us find an inexpensive place to stay near Odaesan National Park not too mention just giving good advice and suggestions. The hostel was clean and while we didn’t have a private room it was very pleasant. We shared our room with several other traveller’s including a German, a Swiss, a Japanese, a Canadian, and a dude from somewhere in Latin America over the course of the two nights we were there. We couldn’t use our credit card to pay for the room but at $16.26 USD per person per night who cares. A fantastic hostel that I would be happy to recommend over and over again!

Night 4: Some local hotel in the town of Jinbu right near Odaesan National Park
Unfortunately I have no idea what the name of this place was. Our room was great. It was clean, and stocked with plenty of toiletries! Our refrigerator even had two energy drinks in it. The coolest part of this room was that it was an ondol room. By that I mean that the room’s floor was heated. It was a faux wood, floor and in the corner of the room was a pile containing two sleeping pads, two pillows, and two blankets. After watching tv for a while and taking showers we spread out the pads, curled up in our blankets, and slept soundly. This was a wonderful way to sleep and extremely warm. I also have no complaints about the fact that we were on the floor. I woke up in the morning with zero aches or pains. Another cool feature of the hotel was that our room fee came to a whopping $21 USD for the night. While the hostels charged by the person this place charged by the room!!! They only took cash though.

Nights 5-7: Yongpyong Youth Hostel
For about $7.75 per person, per night you can get a bunk bed at this fairly large hostel. The downside to it being a big hostel is that the rooms are filled with bunkbeds and they seperate the rooms by gender which meant that Emily and I were in different rooms. Also the bathrooms are not the small, per room type but instead are the large, communal type. Each bunkbed is enclosed though and has a curtain and a light inside it so one can get a bit of privacy if one desires. A fantastic feature of staying here is a little coupon book for various places at the resort including two that get you 30% off lifts and rentals. Its also right by the lifts which at $7.75 a night is friggidy fresh! They also have ondol rooms which would be perfect for families or groups since they are priced by the room instead of by the person but they were like like $49 USD which I couldn’t justify next to $15.50 USD for two bunkbeds being the cheapskate that I am. No complaints! Great location, great price, decent digs not too mention we could pay with our credit card.

Night 8: The Bong House
I know what you’re thinking but no, they did not offer us a “peace pipe.” The dude who runs it is named Mr. Bong. We wanted to stay in the Hongdae Guesthouse for our last night in Korea but they were booked so we found this place online at www.hostelworld.com lickty-split and made our reservation via internet before getting on the bus earlier that day at Yongpyong Ski Resort. It was pretty much a house in Seoul that the owner had turned into a hostel. We got a private room but all the rooms shared 3 bathrooms and it was kind of funny because the “check-in” desk was a card table set up in front of a bed in one of the two common rooms where the “staff” hung out. Its located a short walk from Hyehwa subway station in the northern portion of Seoul. Its a pretty cool area, near a university and a shopping district. The hostel wasn’t as clean as the other places but it wasn’t what I would have called dirty either. Just a little bit more well-worn and less new. It seemed like the kind of place that would be cool to stay at for a longer period of time. The staff was cool and there was good comraderie between everyone. Some of the other guests were students at an international college in Japan and we talked about our similiar experiences. To give you an idea about the Bong House they had pictures of former guests up on the walls, and on a bulletin board they had little postings such as: “The Bong House needs someone who would volunteer to watch over it from 3-11pm Tuesdays and Thursdays. In exchange you can stay for free.” It was the sort of place that made me think it’d be fun to turn one of the rooms in our apartment here in Taiwan into a hostel room. Simple, cheap ($14.73 USD per person, per night), the convenience of a computer with free internet, and close to public transportation. It was the hardest to find out of every place we stayed at being down a side alley. It just required written directions though and we didn’t have any trouble. They only took cash though.

Well thats it. We didn’t have any bad experiences with lodging in Korea. I would recommend all the places we stayed at. I really liked the local place in Jinbu and that night was the one I was most nervous about because every other night we had a reservation somewhere which meant we had a specific destination. That night we had just gotten off the bus from Seoul in Jinbu, walked to a restaurant, and after finishing our meal pointed to the phrase in our lonelyplanet guidebook that said “I’m looking for a cheap hotel.” The lady walked us down the street a little ways, pointed down a street to the right at a building and motioned that that was where we should go.

Everybody worries when travelling on the cheap about ending up somewhere nasty where spiders, roaches, and rats crawl over you while you sleep but honestly all the places we stayed at were well-cared for, clean, and hospitable!

 

We’ve arrived back from in Taiwan from our vacation in Korea! It was an awesome, awesome, awesome trip. The following is a list of the free stuff we received from the generous people of Korea:

a free traditional Korean pipe during a performance at the Chongdong Theater in Seoul when Emily was called up on stage
two free cups of instant coffee from a generous coffee shop staff in Jinbu
a free power adapter for plugging into Korean wall-sockets from a generous shop-keeper in Jinbu. Why he didn’t want our money we’ll never know
a free dinner at a restaurant outside Odaesan National Park from the generous Temple Stay staff of Woljeongsa Temple
a free ride to Yongpyong Ski Resort from Mr. Joo from Odaesan National Park
two trinkets bought at a gift shop at Yongpyong for Emily by Mr. Joo
two Haagen-daz ice cream bars from Mr. Joo
two free swimsuit rentals and admission to the indoor water park at Peak Island at Yongpyong Ski Resort from Mr. Joo
free apples, chips, beer, tea, coffee, and the like from Mr. Joo
an assortment of winter clothes to wear while skiiing from Mr. Joo plus a set of skis for Emily to use so we could save money on rentals
more free food from Mr. Joo
a free ride in Mr. Joo’s Porsche Carrera to visit Gangeung and see Korea’s East Sea
a free chance for Michael to drive Mr. Joo’s Porsche for a few kilometers on the curvy roads of Korea’s heartland
two sets of these two nut shaped things that you role around in your hand for massaging from Mr. Joo

This list doesn’t even include the money Mr. Joo saved us with the serious discounts on Michael’s ski rental and lift tickets that he got us with his season pass holder abilities and the front row center seats at the Chongdong Theater that Mary Wang of Hongdae Guesthouse got us at the nosebleed wing seats price.

God is a pretty incredible provider and Mr. Joo reminds me of Jesus.

 

After writing a happy birthday email to my Mom (HAPPY BIRTHDAY MOMMA MUFFETT!!!!), I realized that I’d written a ton about our trip in Korea so far. It was intended to be a “brief rundown,” I said, but ended up pretty long. So, I’ll make more use of it by posting my log here, for you to enjoy. Pictures will come when we get back to Taiwan, on Thursday.

Here’s the briefest summary I can manage: We’ve been having an adventurous, crazy, bizarre, cultured, insightful, fun, FUN time here in South Korea!!! Wish you were here :)

*** * *** * *** * ***

Well – we’ve spent a crazy 5 nights in Korea so far, and only have 3 left (boo!) Why is it that adventures make time seem so much longer than normal? hm. We’ve been having a seriously awesome time, backpacking and staying in youth hostels, riding the VAST subway and finding our way by bus from town to town. Michael is such a good adventure-leader, there’s never a dull moment!

Day 1: After packing everything else, I looked for my passport and discovered it was missing. AAAHHHH!!!! But, after racing around town, I got a new, temporary one in less than 5 hours! Wow!!! We made our flight and got to Korea safely. But then…after trying our credit cards at the airport ATM, neither one of us could guess our PIN. We had almost no money in cash…not good. We got to our hostel (which was actually just a private hotel room for super cheap), Michael called the bank in the US, and we were told we could get a cash advance from any bank without using our PIN. Thank you GOD!!!

Day 2: Left the airport hostel mid-morning, took the 1-hour bus into Seoul, and got settled in at the next hostel – 3 bunks, heated beds, nice roomies and just across the street from a hoppin’ university town. After getting some cash, we spent the day wandering around, eating strange and wonderful foods, buying fun clothes, and looking for a bar that might not exist: our search for live music was fruitless, but we spent a few hours listening to a DJ at a local pub.

Day 3: Slept in (as usual), took a tour of the last imperial residence palace, which just so happens to be smack in the middle of the city. It was absolutely beautiful! Woodsy and set in with the landscape, it reminded me of the asian version of a Frank Lloyd Wright masterpiece. You’d love it there. That night we went to a traditional music and dance concert at the Chong Dong Theater, with crazy drums, singing and perfectly synchronized, beautiful dancers. I got called up on stage but the drummers, who happened to be a bunch of hams, and after throwing a spinning disk around was given a long pipe! yay! We spent the evening popping into bars and music clubs, hoping to find some good local talent, and we did :)

Day 4: After less than 3 hours of sleep, we packed up and made it to the USO Korea, where we took a tour bus to the DMZ. Our tour guide was a hilarious Korean man, who was largely incomprehensible, which made us laugh constantly. I think he kept trying to tell jokes or something, and it just wasn’t working out! hehe. The actual DMZ was…bizarre. There we were, standing on the North Korean side of the room where they have joint meetings, our every move monitored, taking….pictures? It seemed so unreal. At one observation point, we could see a few kilometers into N. Korea. The day before, I had finished reading a historical fiction account of the Korean War, in which a Chinese soldier ended up in a POW camp in Korea, and ultimately had to choose whether he would repatriate to China and his family, or leave for the unknown free world of Taiwan. I saw the bridge between North and South, the same one he had to cross over himself. It was crazy. We returned to town and found our way to the city bus station, and after some attempts at sign language got bus tickets to a town close to both our ski resort and a national park. We stopped into a local restaurant, ate a hearty meal, and were pointed to a hotel in town – one that happened to be clean, cheap, and warm. We slept on the heated floors with a few blankets. Heavenly! Wow that was a long day.

Day 5: We had Jefferies church in the morning, then set out to find out how to take a bus to Odaesan National Park. While we were waiting for our bus, we stopped into a coffee shop for some breakfast. They didn’t take credit card, so we were going to leave – but they begged us to stay, and gave us some free coffee! So friendly and warm! We got off the bus at one mountain temple, then hiked 3 hours (with our packs) along the river to Woljeongsa Temple, planning to take the bus back…but at Woljeangsa we were approached by a Korean man who first asked us where we were going, then offered to drive us there! We were skeptical, but then he took us to meet the rest of the gang – other people also living at the temple. We went out to dinner with them, a lively bunch, and had sooo much fun. Mr. Joo (that’s his name) drove us to YongPyong Ski Resort, took us swimming, bought us presents and ice cream, and generally made us feel totally unworthy. What an amazing man! We slept in the youth hostel, which is virtually empty (my room really is empty), which is only $7 a night :)

Day 6: That’s today. Mr. Joo met us bright and early this morning with a suitcase full of ski clothes, and proceeded to outfit us with the best gear, things we definitely would have had to rent otherwise. “Templestay” members also get 50% off of lift tickets, so we are saving so much money just by having him around! Seriously…God is so kind to us. We three skied hard today, and I fell only a few times. hoorah! I’m getting better. This was only my 5th day of skiing ever, which is really amazing. Michael is a good teacher :)

Now we’re sitting in a cafe, Michael’s reading, and we just finished some pizza. And my “little update” has turned into a pretty long narrative. whoops :) There’s so much I left out, too… We plan to ski tomorrow as well, maybe Wednesday too, and then head back to Seoul Wednesday night. Our flight leaves at 1pm on Thursday. I start school again on Monday.

Life goes fast :)

Love you all!!!!!!

Emily

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